Before I reached the Mediterranean south of Barcelona, there was one final hurdle, which you can see here. This was another long day of cycling, and I reached the camp on the shoreline after midnight. That day was a trip. It was totally dark in the mountains, and this time there was no question about the meaning or intent of the honking of the cars that had to deal with me. When I was finally approaching the coast, the otherworldly orange glow of the beach town behind the ridge was a welcome relief. But I felt like a scumbag when I checked in at the campground with: (1) bugs stuck in the sunblock and sweat on my arms, (2) the foulest stench of an honest day's work emanating from my cycling clothes, and (3) the aforementioned flashlight once again attached to my forehead. I liked the beach camp of L´Hospitalitat - plenty of friendly folks there walking around in their underwear. (7/21/04) *

Barcelona, so much to answer for. La Rambla, billed as Europe´s most famous pedestrian strip, is full of buskers of various talent levels. Although I would normally oppose animal supporting roles, this dynamic duo got my vote for the best act. A friendly bicyclist whom I met on my way into the city invited me to an open air film festival screened in the city´s castle exterior. The film seemed interesting, although I obviously missed the majority of it due to an inability to understand Spanish. Everyone laughed like somebody cracked a good one when a young nerdy-looking Antonio Banderas popped up on the screen in a supporting role. (7/24/04)

Guadi and the modernistas dominate Barcelona´s tourist routes. This is La Sagrada Familia, a cathedral of medieval dimensions that is still very much under construction. It was cattle call at the cathedral and I was doing tourist homework along with all the others - seeing the designated sights. After Barcelona, I will be heading north for the Pyrenees and Andorra. Like Brian Wilson and the rest of the Beach Boys when they went into the studio to record Pet Sounds, I will be praying for a maximum love vibration from the heavens as I begin the ascent. (7/24/04)