Leaving Marcus and Gabriele´s house after an extended stay, modelling some recently-acquired cold weather riding gear for my newly-planned northern route. The morning of my departure I rolled out of the warmth of my soft feather bed, showered for the last time in the spotlessly clean light blue-tiled bathroom, ate a full breakfast (of sugar cereal with refrigerator-cold soymilk, and cinnamon bread with homemade jam), said goodbye to the faithful St. Bernard, and began cycling into the autumn chill in the direction of Belgium, psychologically prepared to resume the hardscrabble lifestyle of drifting from one European campground to the next. 8/31/04

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Leaving Euskirchen, Germany