On the first day back on the road I cycled through the Eifel nature reserve in western Germany en route to the Belgian border, where I caught views of lakes and rolling hills along the manure-dotted lanes. Lunch this day was a malodorous affair; I mistakenly sat across from a greasy-faced and putrifying human wreck and his bandaged sidekick at a Turkish falafal establishment and tried to breath through my mouth while choking down my pita. Later in the afternoon I reached Einruhr and stopped to stare into the darkening lake surrounded by hillsides covered in pine. As I approached the Belgian Ardennes the weather was wildly fluctuating between sunny, overcast, and torrents of rain. 8/31/04

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Einruhr, Germany