After landing I was processed through customs by a surprisingly beautiful (yet stern) Russian woman. After negotiating the taxi fare into the town (with no help from the aforementioned oilman; "I'm always met" was the response to my query regarding local taxi fare), I was riding past the nighttime rainbow of neon into the city center where I crashed at an air-conditioned hotel by the sea shore. The next morning I had oatmeal for breakfast - the first time in nearly a year. It was awesome! Can you imagine how great it will be when I will have the ability to eat oatmeal whenever I want it? I can scarcely contain my excitement. (6-02-05)

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Kazakh War Memorial Poster