On the fourth day without a shower I now smelled like an uncovered New Jersey landfill. I knew that I would make it to Beyneu (near the Uzbekistan border) that day. Finally, the promised land - the town that had been signposted for the last four days and 480 kilometers. I was praying the whole day that it would have a hotel or someplace that I could shower. My spirits sank upon seeing the so-called town – a collection of mudtrails, empty railroad cars and crumbling brick structures with no sign of a hotel or restaurant. On the way in I was stopped by the local militsia, who took forever to take down my information, but he did tell me that there was (1) a bank, (2) a restaurant, and (3) (hooray!) a hotel. So that evening I happily laid my head down at the ultra-clean Hotel Arna, but only after having used their shower/sauna facility for over an hour. I think I saw enough dirt go down the drainpipe to start a small garden – man, it felt good to be clean. At the restaurant I ate two full meals, drank some ice cold coca cola, and felt pretty pleased at having made it through the Kazakhstan void. (6-06-05)

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This Was What I Saw All Day On the Fourth Day - Gravel and Horizon