It took several hours the next day and then another return trip the morning thereafter to OVIR to get my visa registered. As soon as I got the registration slip I packed as much food and water as I could on the bike (yogurt, nuts, dried fruit, bread, butter, cookies), and headed off into the void of the Ustyurt Plateau in the direction of Karakalpakstan. (6-02-05)

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Ship Memorial, Nighttime, Aktau